I don't think I am the most easily impressed guy that you will ever meet. But I have to admit that I was majorly blown away seeing Bethany Hamilton yesterday. Her charm, her strength, beauty and composure are simply overwhelming.
She paddled out from next to where I was standing at the Swatch Pro at Lower Trestles yesterday. She didn't have the best day but the waves were squirrelly and sporadic.
Movie star beautiful, I watched as she waited what seemed like an interminable time for a set.
I read recently, and I paraphrase, that she wants to be looked at as a surfer and not necessarily anything else. Not be defined by her loss of an arm. I totally get it.
Bethany is one of those people that seems to radiate joy. A genuine smile. I confess to feeling my heart sink when I watched her struggle a bit to get out of the rocky surf. Not easy with one arm holding a surfboard, she did it with total composure.
Count me in. I am a big fan. Extraordinary woman.
4 comments:
Well said!
Beautiful surfing from an amazing human being. Gogo
Awesome story and photo!!
The rock dance at trestles is never easy, even for those of us with all of our factory equipment still intact.
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