The Great Truffle Caper

Through out all of life's vicissitudes and hardships, one must keep an eye focussed on the future and the promise of a better day. We marshall on, and face our travails with optimism and good cheer. It is called surviving in style. And in that spirit the Great Truffle Caper was hatched.

Last night nine of us traveled to our friend Renee's beautiful home and concocted a meal that will live in our hearts and dance on our taste buds for ever. Before I discuss the finer points of our culinary fare, first a bit of history.

I run with a nice group of foodies who really enjoy each other's company. The size and number of the collective varies from event to event. We had all discussed going to El Bizcocho for their White Truffle night but when we heard that it was $350.00 per head, quickly demurred.

So my wife came up with an idea, why not buy some white truffles wholesale, and everybody take a crack at cooking with them? Bring a wine selection for your food course. But first, just what the heck is a truffle?

From Wiki: A truffle (pronounced /ˈtrʌfəl/) is a fungi fruiting body that develops underground and relies on mycophagy for spore dispersal. Almost all truffles are ectomycorrhizal and are therefore usually found in close association with trees. The mycelia of truffles form symbiotic relationships with the roots of several tree species including beech, poplar, oak, birch, hornbeam, hazel, and pine. They prefer argillaceous or calcareous soils which are well drained and neutral or alkaline. Truffles fruit throughout the year, depending on the species and can be found buried between the leaf litter and the soil.


There are hundreds of species of truffles that are big, but the fruiting body of some (mostly in the genus 'Tuber') are highly prized as a food. The 18th-century French gastronome Brillat-Savarin called these truffles "the diamond of the kitchen". Edible truffles are held in high esteem in French, Spanish, northern Italian and Greek cooking, as well as in international haute cuisine.


The "white truffle" or "Alba madonna" (Tuber magnatum) comes from the Langhe area of the Piedmont region in northern Italy and, most famously, in the countryside around the city of Alba. It is also found in Croatia, on the Istria peninsula in the Motovun forest alongside Mirna river. Growing symbiotically with oak, hazel, poplar and beech and fruiting in autumn, they can reach 12 cm diameter and 500 g, though are usually much smaller. The flesh is pale cream or brown with white marbling. The white truffle market in Alba is busiest in the months of October and November. The Tuber magnatum pico white truffle is found mostly in northern and central Italy, while the Tuber borchii, or whitish truffle, is found in Tuscany, Romagna, the Marche and Molise.


I started rooting around for the truffles on line and settled on truffles from the Sabatino Tartufi Company, almost half the price of Dean and Deluca. We ordered two ounces of the precious white tuber, Tuber Magnatum Pico for $278.00. A far cry from $350.00 per head. They were shipped priority overnight two days before the feast. It worked out to $62.00 per family, expensive but doable. I have noticed that the price has risen this week to $309.00 so it must be like a commodities market.

When I received the shipment I took it over to Dixon and Connie's house to store in their fridge. We opened the perishable box, and pulled the beautiful nuggets out of the bag and the most heavenly aroma filled the kitchen. I carefully counted the fungal boulders and gave their temporary host a cautious glance.

Last night was the big event. We arrived at the spanish hilltop home around five. The night started with a pinot and bubbly. When the last guests finally arrived we started talking about the logistics and sequencing of the operation. There were at least five very competent alpha cooks in the kitchen, the question is could they work together? We had sketched out a menu in the previous week, how would it all play out? 


We munched on a delicious array of cheeses while things got sorted out. A gorgeous table was set, complete with Reneé's Georg Jensen flatware. The water pitcher was filled and had nice added citrus. Reneé had baked bread earlier in the day for the occasion that was still warm. Checked out her great home.

My wife Leslie, a superb cook, started things off. The first course was her homemade crostini, brushed with the confit rendering, and topped with shredded duck confit, mache and a dollop of creme fraiche. Then a generous amount of the shaved star of the night to top the canape´off. 


I know that I am prejudiced but it was amazing comfort food and my favorite of the night in a very stellar night. Leslie also accompanied her dish with her unusual finely minced celery root salad, and one that we all really loved.


The next course was prepared by the wonderful cook, John C..  John whipped up a mushroom truffle risotto, right before our eyes, with a few varieties of japanese mushroom that I was not familiar with. Very warming and sensuous and made special by a hint of habonero in the broth. Hearty and perfect.

The next course was fresh green beans, prepped by Brigitte and Morgan, and cooked by John and Leslie with a splash of Temecula Valley white truffle olive oil and a dash of truffle salt. Absolutely delicious, I am so glad that we included this dish.





Reneé was up next with the traditional french fare of scrambled eggs with shaved truffles. This is how truffles are normally served in france and italy. It was magnificent as well and the eggs were cooked perfectly, not too wet and not too dry.

Dixon followed next with his handmade lobster truffle ravioli, large pillows stuffed with delectable treasure. An excellent entree dish.

He also had some incredible wines to share with us. I did not note the names and vintages, being remiss last night but not a bad bottle in the bunch. Brig and Morgan brought Veuve Cliquot. Jeaneane and John brought some fantastic reds from their recent trip to Sonoma.

We finished the meal with a nice fresh salad made by Bri and topped with her luscious homemade dressing. No truffles in this one, a first for the seven course meal. Good to get the greens.

Dessert was not the fresh lemon gelato originally conceived, as the machine had some kind of breakdown, but instead ably substituted with Williams Sonoma salted chocolates, homemade brittle from Dixon and a bunch of other sweet temptations.

Connie offered up a bottle of her precious Donna Daria dessert wine from Italy, the soft topaz colored victual seductively warming our palates and tummies.

Of course, we talked and talked and thoroughly enjoyed each other's company. Reneé insisted on cleaning up herself. The evening ended with strong cups of coffee and tea brewed from fresh picked lemon verbena straight from the garden.

This was a great meal. I am not a cook and it was a pleasure to watch the craftsmen work together so seamlessly in the kitchen. We all can't wait to do something else together again! It was so nice of Reneé to host the group. To surviving in style!