I have bought and sold many important weavings in my life but never thought I would find a classic period saltillo serape. This one was originally found in a thrift store and sold to me at the show in Santa Barbara last week by a very kind gentleman.
They are associated with the town of Saltillo in the northern Mexico state of Coahuila and woven by the Tlaxcalan indians.
From the Metropolitan Museum of Art website:
The Saltillo serapes of northern Mexico are among the most flamboyant textiles woven in North America during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Long associated with use by horsemen—which accounts for their considerable size—they took on nationalist overtones after Mexico's independence from Spain in 1821. Horse culture and its accoutrements, from fine horse to fine serape, became distinctively and visibly Mexican, with Saltillo serapes being the epitome of the male fashion.
Incredibly thin, they were dyed with native indigo and cochineal, the latter found by crushing bugs that lived in the nopal cactus.
These classics were all colored with natural dies, which included wood, Palo moralete and sacalascal.
The cochineal creates the brilliant red, which at one time was worth more than silver!
The early weavings have a single concentric center diamond and it seems were mostly red and purple, with various shades of cochineal.
Later you find white and red ones and the center medallions changed but it seems that the early gentlemen favored the red ones. After 1820 multiple center diamonds were introduced and in some cases, commercial dyes. They got thicker in many cases with plied warps.
The classic blankets like mine are quite rare and can usually only be found in museum collections like the Met and L. A. County.
I will be showing this early textile at the Santa Fe Whitehawk Show in two weeks, hope that you can stop by and see it.
My friend Jim Jeter wrote this book on the topic back in the seventies and organized the first Museum exhibition.
My friends Leven Jester and Michael Caden took the pictures in the excellent book, long out of print.
Jim stopped by and told me that I had a wonderful early example.
Every one is different. I have studied all that I could and have yet to see one that is not stunningly beautiful.
It is estimated that they took at least two years to weave.
My weaving is missing the right border although some of it is tucked under and sewn.
Apparently the only people now capable of repairing the missing inch and a half are in Turkey and the repair would supposedly cost me somewhere between 10 and 15k.
I think that I will be enjoying it as is. Might even keep this one! If I had to hazard a guess I would have to think that it came from an old Santa Barbara land grant family whose scion was perhaps uninterested in family history. Their loss.
What a treasure!
For more information on Saltillos I recommend watching Mark Winter's two saltillo videos on Youtube, art dealer diary. He has spent his life researching them and his love for them and his scholarship is inspiring.
He mentions in the video that the Spanish crown did not trust Spaniards born in the new world. Perhaps the feeling was mutual and part of the reason this beautiful garment was associated with independence and was worn by the native born with such pride.